The Best of So-Cal
I’m taking an idea from Max and applying it to So-Cal (It’s not a new idea but his post sparked the interest). The idea is to develop a list of the best boulder problems by grade in Southern California. First I want to create the list and then I want you to vote on the BEST boulder of each grade. I need your help to determine whether the lines listed below are worthy and what unlisted problems are true classics. Please be specific and give reasons why a problem is amazing. Keep in mind good doesn’t cut it for this list, it has to be great! Ideally I’d like to see at least two people vouch for a climb before adding it to the list. Also if you feel any of the grades are off, let me know.
Some of the criteria are:
- Quality of the line – tall beauty or lowball traverse?
- Rock quality – crumbly choss or bullet hard granite? nearly everything in So-Cal is sharp but some climbs (Morphic Resonance) get demerits for having razor blades disguised as holds.
- Movement – does it flow or is it thrutchy & weird?
- Obvious start – perfect jugs or laydown start on razor crimps?
The list, to be updated with your feedback:
V0
- Illicit Sweetie – Joshua Tree
V1
- Big Greenie – Black Mountain
- Diamond Zen – Black Mountain
- Emerald City – Tramway
V2
- Campground Arete – Black Mountain
- The Chube – Joshua Tree
- Crowd Pleaser – Stoney Point
V3
- Where the Sidewalk Ends – Black Mountain
- Largo Stem – Black Mountain
- White Rastafarian – Joshua Tree
- Slashface – Joshua Tree
- Like a Virgin – Tramway
V4
- The Pride – Black Mountain
- OK Problem – Black Mountain
- Stem Gem – Joshua Tree
- Standing on the Head of the Dragon – Tramway
- Woolly Mammoth Tusk – Tramway
V5
- Light as a Feather – Black Mountain
- Fallen Arch – Black Mountain
- Where Boneheads Dare – Black Mountain
- High Noon – Joshua Tree
- Southridge Arete – Idyllwild
- Green Hornet – Tramway
V6
- Planet X – Joshua Tree
- Alexandria – Joshua Tree
- Streetcar Named Desire – Joshua Tree
- Year of the Cockroach – Tramway
V7
- Ghost Dog – Black Mountain
- Cracker Boy – Black Mountain
- Tour de France – Black Mountain
- Casino Royale – Morongo Boulders
- My Infested Destiny – Tramway
V8
- Soulsnatch – Black Mountain
- Forms – Black Mountain
- Where the Wild Things Are – Black Mountain
- Velvet Revolver sit start – Black Mountain
- Megalomania – Black Mountain
- OK Arete – Black Mountain
- Sword of Damocles – Horse Flats
- Gluttony - Tramway
- Solitude – Tramway
V9
- Cosmos – Black Mountain
- Rapture of the Sheep – Black Mountain
- For the Love of Basic Cable – Tramway
- Attack of the Staph – Tramway
- Left Hand of Darkness – Tramway
- Soul Caliber – Tramway
- Vanishing Point – Tramway
V10
- Beware the Jabberwocky – Black Mountain
- Man is the Bastard - Black Mountain
- Morphic Resonance – Black Mountain
- Twilight of the Idols – Black Mountain
- Dark Horse – Black Mountain
- Dark Matter – Joshua Tree
- Steep Sharma Arete – Tramway
V11
V12
- Bang On – Black Mountain
- Somewhere in Time – Tramway
V13
- Iron Resolution – Joshua Tree
Dark Matter
Here’s Dark Matter V10 at Joshua Tree. It’s one of the best at Josh if you have the chance to hike out to the underground!
