Ticino: The Beta
Language:
There are four national languages in Switzerland: German, French, Italian, and Rumantsch. In Ticino, the Southern-most region of Switzerland, Italian is spoken. In Italian if a C is followed by an I or an E, it is pronounced like ‘CH’. Also, E’s and I’s are pronounced different than in English. For example, Ticino is pronounced ‘Tee-chee-no’ and Cresciano is pronounced ‘Cresh-ee-a-no’. This works the other way also, if there is a CH followed by an I or an E it is pronounced like a K. For example Chironico is pronounced ‘Kee-ro-nee-co’. Brione = ‘Bree-o-nay’. Vecchio Leone = ‘Veh-kee-o lay-o-nay’. Hopefully that makes sense!
Magic Wood is in the Graubünden region of Switzerland where German is spoken. I have no clue how to speak or pronounce German, good luck!
Chironico
Money:
Switzerland is one of the most expensive countries in Europe. It is also one of the few countries that haven’t switched to the Euro; they use the Swiss franc which, as of this writing, is worth $1.04. One tip for saving money is to shop at Aldi, there is one near the onramp to the autostrada on the south side of Bellinzona. For Magic Wood, there is an Aldi in Thusis; get off the autostrada at the second Thusis exit, turn left, it’ll be on your left after a km. One other tip is to stop eating meat since it’ll quadruple your meal cost. We made a lot of lentil dishes when we were in Switzerland.
Swiss francs
Aldi
Swanky Swizzy
During a four month stay in Europe this year, Les Warnock and Alex Savage lived in Bellinzona, Switzerland for five weeks to explore the bouldering of Ticino which is home to some of the finest granite blocs in the world. Check out our adventures as we see what the bouldering of Ticino is all about. This short film (16 min) features everything from 8B boulder problems to the tallest unguided bungee jump in the world! Hope you enjoy it and please let me know what you think!
The music in order of appearance is:
Dub Pistols – Running From the Thoughts
Dub Pistols – Open
Dub Pistols – Speed of Light
Aether – It Was
Aether – Makeshift Sanctuary
Farewell Magic Wood
We left Magic Wood to head back to France to catch our flight out of Paris. Unfortunately Magic Wood didn’t treat us well. We had one stretch of four or five days of sunshine and then it was back to rain, rain, and more rain. Magic Wood sits in a narrow valley with very sporadic weather patterns. It could be raining heavily in the valley but the sun could be shining two kilometers north. It was the worst month of weather I’ve ever seen for climbing, much worse than our time in Font. In retrospect we could have spent three good days climbing there and accomplished the same as what we did in a month. We had a few good days and the rest were spent either projecting something or huddling under the Tarp of Darkness, watching the rain fall. Magic Wood is a great place to meet people so we had plenty of people to spend the rainy days with. We made friends from Switzerland, France, Belgium, Romania, Russia, Austria, Italy, England, Poland, and Germany!
Les learning a crazy game
Tom and Lucas dodging exploding ash
Alex on a rad 7B. Photo by Les
In the end we were much more fond of Ticino than Magic Wood, even ignoring the weather. We found the lines and the rock to be better in Ticino. Many of the ‘classics’ of magic wood don’t topout such as Supernova, Never Ending Story Parts 1 & 2, Sofa Surfer, Piranha, etc. Not to say those are all bad boulder problems but dropping off isn’t the same to me as topping out a boulder. I ended up projecting a long crimpy 8B called One Summer in Paradise. I did all the moves in 30 minutes so I was optimistic about sending it quickly. Four sessions later it didn’t happen! I climbed to the end where the crux lies 20+ times in conditions ranging from fair to raining and never had the energy to finish it.
One Summer in Paradise 8B. Photo by Guillaume
We are excited to leave the continent tomorrow as we head south to South Africa. Our flight leaves Paris tomorrow at 11PM and after a layover in Johannesburg, we should touch down in Cape Town at 2PM Wednesday. After a three or four hour drive north, we will reach our new home for the winter just outside the Rocklands.
Chironico
We returned to Chironico last Sunday to escape the rain that inevitably falls on Magic Wood. When we got to Ticino we found unbelievable conditions. Sunny, cool, and a nice strong breeze. Perfetto.
Chironico
Magic Wood
One of the reasons we left Magic Wood for Italy was the forecast was full of rain everyday. We returned from our week ‘vacation’ in Italy to drive up into the Swiss mountains with visibility at 5 meters and rain coming down all around us. The forest of magic wood was well saturated when we arrived. We setup camp and hoped for better weather soon. We had a lucky second day with a few boulders dry enough to climb on.
Dave
After that it never stopped raining; it sometimes slowed to a barely perceptible mist but there was always precipitation. We filled our days with books, chatter, cooking, and dreams of dry rock. Thankfully there is one boulder problem that stays dry even during rainfall, The Never Ending Story Part 2 7C+, which is an awesome problem down on the river with perfect polished rock. Les and I both managed to climb it quickly.
Les on The Never Ending Story Part 2
After that I climbed the only other dry problem, Massive Attack 8A, which is just a few hard moves that doesn’t really go anywhere (no top out). That was the end of the climbing so we returned to sitting under the tarp. Our dreams of dry weather didn’t come true and after six days of sitting in the rain, the forecast called for 10 more days of rain so we cut our losses and headed back to Ticino where the forecast was dry and even cooler than in April. Sorry for the lack of photos of Magic but it’s been wet and the psych has been low.
Adventures of a Crippled Crusher
On the day we chose to move out of our apartment in Bellinzona (Tuesday April 27th), we awoke to gloomy surroundings. Bellinzona was soaked and the rain hadn’t stopped falling. We woke up late and spent the morning cleaning the apartment and packing our black Peugeot full of our belongings. We left our beloved apartment around noon and headed to town to grab a few things on our way to Brione one last time before moving to Magic Wood. I was well convinced that it would be equally wet in Brione so I enjoyed a gelato to make the day better. As we winded through the canyon to Brione it looked to be a similar story with sprinkles of water consistently finding their way to the windshield. However, about five kilometers before reaching our destination the roads changed to a lighter color indicating the possibility of dry boulders ahead. As we walked into the lower river sector that’s exactly what we found! Even better, the clouds that were threatening above provided much needed relief from the sun, allowing the boulders to remain a few degrees cooler than normal.
I warmed up slowly on the rock and rested while Leslie worked out the moves on Marylyn Monroe. At the end of my warm up session I climbed on Bach Bloc which reignited my back injury from two days prior. The injury first occurred on Sunday at Magic Wood on a problem called Sofa Surfer. On my flash attempt I blew off the last holds and landed on my butt which bottomed out the crashpad into the rock underneath. This caused pain when I tried to stand upright. The injury started feeling better later that day and the pain had gone away by the middle of Monday.
Despite the reoccurrence of pain on Tuesday I decided to hike up to Vecchio Leone since it was our last day at Brione and I had put so much effort into this line in the previous weeks. After hobbling up the mountain, we arrived at the boulder and I laid on my crashpad for awhile hoping my back would loosen up. It continued to hurt so I decided to try the problem anyway. I had no expectations but I pulled on, instantly switched on 100% focus, stuck the first long move and continued my way up the boulder. I felt surprisingly good so I fought to stick the crux move to the crimp rail but my right hand popped off again! I was psyched to have such a good burn considering my condition. Unfortunately the intense climbing increased my back pain substantially and I could hardly stand up. Obviously I couldn’t give up after such a solid attempt so I rested for twenty minutes before giving it another go.
At this point it was difficult to walk or move the crashpads on my own. I hobbled up to the problem, pulled onto the starting holds, stuck the first move, did the difficult ‘front lever’ move to place my right toe on a tiny chip way out right, latched the next hold and pulled up to find myself at the crux again. I stuck the rounded crimp rail and my right hand remained clamped to the pinch for the first time! I matched the rail, fought the back pain to let my feet cut and climbed on to better holds and eventually the top! I couldn’t believe it!
Vecchio Leone 8B
The bad news is that my back was exponentially worse after this and I literally couldn’t stand up on top of the boulder! I barely managed to hobble off the boulder, hunched over like an old man. After a slow cripple-style walk down the mountain we headed off towards Magic Wood.
Hunchback Savage
In the car I was hoping my back would start to loosen up on the drive there. Unfortunately that wasn’t the case and it continued with shooting pains whenever I would try to move. Leslie helped with my things and setting up my tent since I couldn’t do much of anything on my own. I hoped after a night’s rest it would improve but sadly it was worse in the morning after the Advil had worn off. It was exceedingly painful to roll over, sit up, stand up, lie down or basically move in any direction. I decided to find a hospital to see if I had done any serious damage.
We found one 15 kilometers to the North in Thusis. Our first experience in the German speaking portion of Switzerland was walking into this hospital (I know zero German). The hospital was very clean and virtually empty; I saw one other patient while I was there which left most of their staff to help me out. Luckily a few people there spoke some English so I wasn’t totally in the dark. After taking x-rays the doctor told me there wasn’t any major damage to my spine or vertebrae. He said I had strained a ligament connecting my pelvis to my back which was probably the source of the pain. He told me to stop climbing for two weeks and see if it feels better then. Now I am 400 francs poorer but I’m up a few pain patches and pain pills which allows me to type this with only mild discomfort. Here’s hoping I can start walking again soon!
Going Big
The Verzasca Dam is on the way to Brione and it is where James Bond was filmed bungee jumping in the intro to Goldeneye. At over 720 feet in height, it is the tallest unguided bungee jump in the world.
Verzasca Dam
This is Les going airborne off the Verzasca Dam (video forthcoming):
Les Going Big
Can you see Les? Hint: he's the black dot at the bottom of the dam
Since our last post we’ve been spending a lot of time in Brione, where it has been HOT. We usually don’t head out until 4 in the afternoon so that we can get on our projects just before dark. I’ve had a few more sessions on Vecchio Leone and I have been agonizingly close to sending. I think I’ve fallen on the last move 25 times now. All I’ve been doing is resting and trying this problem for 2-3 hours per session then taking another rest day. It is very frustrating to come so close so many times and never succeed, especially in this heat. We climbed in the dark and drove home at midnight with the windows rolled down..
Yesterday we decided we needed a break from projects so we went up to Magic Wood for the first time. On the drive up we traveled through beautiful mountains covered in snow. The forecast was for rain but it was sunny when we arrived. The forest here is very dense with thick moss covering the boulders. We ran into a friend from Milano we had met in Ticino earlier in the week. She offered to show us around since it was our first time visiting Magic Wood. We did a few cool warm ups and then it started raining so we huddled under the Sofa Surfer boulder. After 30 minutes or so the rain slowed to a drizzle and I decided to give Sofa Surfer a go. From what I hear this problem was originally given 8a+ but now it is given 8a. It is a direct line going up an overhanging wall on decent crimps. After spending a few minutes trying to figure out where I should start it, I pulled on and climbed my way to the last move before blowing off the last holds. I sent a few goes later and didn’t think the problem felt anywhere near 8a. So far it seems some of the grades in Switzerland are off. Not all problems feel that way, but many feel a bit soft.
After my first day I have mixed feelings about Magic Wood. It is a beautiful forest full of boulders but I haven’t seen too many lines that really inspire me. Many of the problems here are dropoffs, which is mostly due to the foot of grass and moss on the top of most boulders. Some of the lines have bunchy starts and traverse boulders rather than climbing directly up. On the other hand, I am very psyched to climb in a place with cooler weather and many problems to do. It’s so nice to be able to climb at any time of the day rather than waiting for the sun to go down before climbing.
We are resting today and I’m giving Vecchio one last shot tomorrow before we move out of Bellinzona and into Magic Wood for a few weeks. Sorry no pics from Magic Wood yet but we’ll post some whenever we have internet access again.
Be sure to check out Black Diamond’s Blog to see our latest video from font!
Switzerland Day 23
Les has switched into crush mode lately, sending three 7C+’s and one 7C in a four day period.
Les
We’ve been spending most of our time lately at Brione. Les sent Fake Pamplemousse a few days ago and then we headed down to the lower river area for Andrea and Doug to try Bach Bloc again. While they were working on it I walked just downhill to check out a cool problem called Side Effect which I think was put up a few years ago by Nalle Hukkataival.
Side Effect 7C+
It has a pit of doom landing that someone stretched a web of logs across so that you can put a couple pads down.
Deep Pit of Doom
I pulled on a few times, did the first long move to a small sharp crimp but couldn’t do the second move. It was feeling really hard so I took a long massa rest. When I hopped on it again, I felt much stronger, stuck the first two moves and then sent the problem!
Side Effect 7C+
Side Effect
Unfortunately our good friends Doug and Andrea have left us for Spain. On the bright side, we convinced our apartment owner to let us stay for half price, so we are still living the high life in our swanky swiss apartment. The pace around the house has slowed considerably with only two of us inhabiting. No more late night games of Spades or Oh Hell, but we have been watching It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia which is hilarious!
Ok now back to the outdoors…
the local wildlife
more wildlife
I’ve been projecting Vecchio Leone (Old Lion), an 8B put up by Bernd Zangerl which was featured in Memento and Dosage III. It’s a beautiful overhanging wall that climbs on positive holds up to the crux which involves an undercling pinch/crimp and a really powerful move to gain the crimp rail above. I stuck the crux move by itself at the start of my second session and linked it to the crux five times but couldn’t quite do the move. I was psyched to get all the moves done and felt close to sending!
We drove back up to Brione yesterday so I could get back on it. While we were there Les dispatched a cool 7B+/7C called Atlantis (vid to come).
Atlantis
Then he started working on an 8a called Salamandre which involves some awesome bread loaf pinches. We’ll take some photos of it today to show you.
The climbing at Brione is only at 800 meters or 2,600 feet so unfortunately we’ve past the prime season for climbing here. I’ve been waiting until the sun dips below the mountain, around 4PM, to start warming up since it’s been so hot lately. This gives me a brief window from 6:30 – 8:30 when it gets dark to send in halfway decent temps.
Walking to Vecchio Leone
I had some good goes from the ground, usually getting to the crux and coming close to sticking the move. Here’s the crux sequence of one of my attempts from the bottom:
Vecchio Leone
I STUCK IT!!!
Nah, nope...
So after falling at the crux a few more times, we walked out in the dark just before 9 only to start the cycle over again: climb 2nd day, rest day, wait until 4 to warm up and try project. We’re headed back to Brione today to work on Salamandre.
